(To start this series from the beginning with a night in a Japanese guest house, click here!) Magome (also called “Magome-juku”) is a preserved post town in the Japan alps which was once the last of the stations on the Kisoji, an ancient travel road that passed through the alps from north to south. Later, during the Edo period (1603-1868) Magome served as the 43rd station on the Nakasendo–the northern travel road connecting Edo (now Tokyo) with Kyoto. Today, Magome and neighboring Tsumago (the next post town to the north along the Kisoji and Nakasendo routes) have been preserved and restored to their Edo-period state, allowing
Read moreMonth: August 2017
Travels in Magome: An Evening at a Japanese Guest House
Research for my upcoming Hiro Hattori novels allows me to travel widely in Japan, and whenever possible I try to stay in traditional Japanese inns (ryokan) and guesthouses (minshuku). People often ask about the difference between ryokan and a minshuku — and although accommodations vary, minshuku are generally more like a family-run bed and breakfast than a full-service inn. For example, guests at a minshuku typically make their own beds, and the bathrooms are often located down the hall (as opposed to having private ones en suite). Minshuku are often (though not always) less expensive, too, though depending on the area and the inn in question, the experience can vary widely. Last autumn, I
Read moreBreakfast on Koyasan: A Meal at Kumagaiji
Today, I’d like to take you to breakfast with me at Kumagaiji, a Shingon temple on Koyasan that opens its doors to visitors of all nationalities (and faiths).
Read moreShojin Ryori: Buddhist Temple Cuisine
In Japanese, shojin ryori (devotional cuisine) refers to a style of vegetarian cooking practiced at Buddhist temples. Like most forms of Japanese cooking. the dishes served in temples change with the seasons, and generally utilize local vegetables and regional specialties. Some temples offer abundant meals with dishes worthy of five-star chefs, while others serve more simple fare, but the shojin ryori visitors can taste in Japanese Buddhist temples generally adheres to a few universal rules: — The meal will not include any animal products. (This includes dairy products like milk and cheese as well as meat, fish, and eggs.) — Dishes do not include garlic, onions, hot peppers
Read moreThree Mysteries at Annie Bloom’s!
If you’re in or around Portland, Oregon this Thursday (August 24, 2017) I hope you’ll join me, along with fellow mystery authors Lisa Alber (Path Into Darkness) and Kerry Schafer (World Tree Girl) for the Three Mysteries Launch Party at Annie Bloom’s Books! It all starts at 7pm on Thursday evening at Annie Bloom’s Books in Portland. We’ll have treats, trivia, mystery, and fun – I hope you’ll join us there! (If you can’t make it to the event, you can still contact Annie Bloom’s and arrange for one or all of us to sign a book for you! Contact information is at the link
Read moreThe Joy of Japanese Cable Cars and Ropeways
Many Japanese mountains have ropeways (in the U.S., we call them gondolas) or cable cars that carry visitors part way to the summit. The distance between the upper cable car or ropeway station and the peak varies widely, so check the facts before you go. The Hakone carries visitors all the way across the top of Owakudani, a live volcano that provides the hot volcanic water for the onsen (hot spring baths) in the Hakone region: However, the ropeway in Gifu Park stops about 20 minutes’ uphill walk from Gifu Castle, and several portions of the hike require climbing stairs. That said, the ropeway also offers a spectacular view
Read moreHiking in the Forest of the Gods
(Click here to start the Mount Mitake series from the beginning.) The portion of Mount Mitake’s upper slopes just below the summit is called the Forest of the Gods. With only half a day on the mountain, and half of that dedicated to the hike to the summit and a visit to Musashi-Mitake Shrine, I opted to spend the remaining hour on the path that winds around Mitake’s upper slopes and through the sacred forest. The path begins near the Tengu’s Seat–a giant cedar whose branches grow in unique curves that would, indeed, make perfect perches for the infamous mountain demons of Japanese lore. Just beyond the wooden torii, a
Read moreA Visit to the Tengu’s Seat
After visiting Musashi-Mitake Shrine, which sits on the summit of Mount Mitake, I descended the stairs to the base of the shrine and followed the path around the mountain toward the hiking trail that leads through the “Forest of the Gods.” The trail wound through a towering forest. Crows called overhead, and every once in a while they flew across my path. One even landed on a nearby branch and stared down at me as if wondering why I chose to intrude on his territory. Even though the rain had stopped several hours before, I didn’t see anyone else on the path. Aside from the crows, and
Read moreIt’s a Party! (A Facebook Party) With Prizes!
Everyone loves a party, and authors are no exception! This afternoon (Tuesday, August 8) from 5-6:30pm Pacific Time, fellow mystery authors Lisa Alber, Kerry Schafer, and I are hosting a Facebook party with lots of prizes and giveaways. We hope you’ll join us. Click here for all the fun! Here’s just one of the fun prize packages I’m giving away: And yes, the socks and candy came from Japan! The party celebrates not only the recent release of my newest Hiro Hattori mystery, Betrayal at Iga, but also today’s release of Kerry’s newest Shadow Valley Manor mystery, World Tree Girl, and Lisa Alber’s newest
Read moreStairs to the Summit: Musashi-Mitake Shrine
(Click here to start from Part 1 of this series on hiking Mount Mitake.) High atop Mount Mitake, northwest of Tokyo, Musashi-Mitake Shrine offers gorgeous views of Chichibu Tama-Kai National Park, home to a number of sacred peaks (including Mitake). The entrance to the shrine looks much like many other Shintō holy places, with a purification fountain: and a torii marking the formal entry to the sacred space: Carved stone lanterns (toro) and ceremonial stones flank the flight of steep stone stairs leading up to the shrine’s main gate. On the day I visited, cool breezes fluttered the flags beside the stairs. Although the clouds obscured my view of
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