Local Juice & Apple Wine

When traveling, many people struggle with the “foreignness” of food and drinks, seeking comfortable (read: familiar) dining options. While I understand the desire for familiarity, especially where food is concerned, I take the opposite approach in Japan–and discovered some amazing, tasty treats along the way. Case in point: the local beverages of Magome. Magome (or Magome-juku) lies in Gifu Prefecture, northeast of Kyoto, in the Japan Alps. This mountainous region is home to many orchards and vineyards, and produces some of Japan’s finest fermented and non-fermented juice-based beverages. Upon arriving in Magome, I noticed a small beverage store just two doors down from Magomechaya, the minshuku (guesthouse) where I stayed. I

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Lanterns on the Nakasendō

During my autumn 2016 research trip to Japan, I spent three nights on the Nakasendo–the “Central Mountain Route” that once connected Kyoto with Edo (now Tokyo) via the Japan Alps. Since the southernmost part of the Nakasendo overlays the even older Kisoji–a travel road that will feature in an upcoming Hiro Hattori mystery novel, I focused my time on Magome, the southernmost post town, which has been restored to its Edo Period condition and preserved as a slice of living history. Most visitors leave Magome at 5pm, on the final bus for Nakatsugawa (the closest railway station, and major town, about 30 minutes

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