Introducing … Hakone!

During my research trip last autumn, I spent several days in Hakone, a hot spring resort in the Fuji Five Lakes region of Japan. Hakone is famous for many things, including views of Mount Fuji, onsen (hot spring baths),  and the ability to enjoy “sightseeing through different modes of transportation”–including trains, cable cars, ropeways, and a ride on a pirate ship.  I went to hike a preserved section of the Tokaidō–once, a famous travel road connecting Kyoto with Edo–but added a few extra days to the trip to ensure I had time to enjoy Hakone, too. (Spoiler alert: I loved it so much I returned with my

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Rice Fields in Magome

One benefit of travel is the opportunity to see amazing things – some of which don’t always fit neatly into an article or blog post.  A good example is this rice field in Magome, Japan – a town in the Japan Alps on the old Kisoji and Nakasendo routes. I walked upon this scene accidentally while waiting for the bus the morning I left Magome after a three-day research stay. The air was crisp with autumn, sharp with wood smoke, and carried the musky scent of drying leaves and ripened rice stalks. My jacket was warm enough, but just barely–another week,

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Avoiding Dangers in Short Form Publishing Deals

Authors have many things to watch out for when evaluating a publishing deal, but one of the most common—and most serious—dangers is something the author doesn’t see: the vital clauses and protections that are often missing from “short-form” publishing contracts, ready to pounce on unsuspecting authors when something goes wrong in the publishing process: I’m guest posting at Writer Unboxed today, discussing these dangers in more detail, and offering some tips for authors who get a contract offer before they sign with an agent. Click here to learn how to spot, and avoid, the lurking dangers in short-form publishing deals.

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Kanda Myojin – the Tutelary Shrine of Edo

Kanda Jinja (also known as Kanda Myojin) is one of Tokyo’s oldest Shintō shrines. Founded in 730, the shrine was originally located in Chiyoda-ku, near the Imperial palace; it was moved to its current location in 1603, when Tokugawa Ieyasu moved the Japanese capital from Kyoto to Edo (now Tokyo). The shrine’s entrance is unassuming–in fact, you could easily miss it if you didn’t know what you were looking for.  The torii that marks the official approach stands on a downtown street, between a pair of buildings. The shrine’s main entrance gate sits just beyond the torii. If you visit, don’t rush past the

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Hearths, Tables, and Samurai Welcome Feasts

My newest Hiro Hattori novel, BETRAYAL AT IGA, features a welcome feast gone horribly wrong. In medieval Japan (and in traditional homes to this day) the tables looked quite different from the ones in Western homes. While Europeans used waist-high tables and sat in elevated chairs, Japanese tables looked like this: People knelt (or sometimes sat cross-legged) on cushions placed directly on the floor. In poorer homes, or on occasions when formal tables were not used, families ate while sitting or kneeling around the irori, a sunken hearth with a bed of fine dirt or sand upon which fires were kindled. The irori was also used to heat the

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Local Juice & Apple Wine

When traveling, many people struggle with the “foreignness” of food and drinks, seeking comfortable (read: familiar) dining options. While I understand the desire for familiarity, especially where food is concerned, I take the opposite approach in Japan–and discovered some amazing, tasty treats along the way. Case in point: the local beverages of Magome. Magome (or Magome-juku) lies in Gifu Prefecture, northeast of Kyoto, in the Japan Alps. This mountainous region is home to many orchards and vineyards, and produces some of Japan’s finest fermented and non-fermented juice-based beverages. Upon arriving in Magome, I noticed a small beverage store just two doors down from Magomechaya, the minshuku (guesthouse) where I stayed. I

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Lanterns on the Nakasendō

During my autumn 2016 research trip to Japan, I spent three nights on the Nakasendo–the “Central Mountain Route” that once connected Kyoto with Edo (now Tokyo) via the Japan Alps. Since the southernmost part of the Nakasendo overlays the even older Kisoji–a travel road that will feature in an upcoming Hiro Hattori mystery novel, I focused my time on Magome, the southernmost post town, which has been restored to its Edo Period condition and preserved as a slice of living history. Most visitors leave Magome at 5pm, on the final bus for Nakatsugawa (the closest railway station, and major town, about 30 minutes

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Dawn on the Nakasendo

(Click here to start the series of posts on the Nakasendo from the beginning.) During Japan’s medieval age, the Nakasendo was the primary northern travel route connecting Edo (now Tokyo) with Kyoto. The southern end of the Nakasendo tracks the course of an older travel road, the Kisoji, which connected the mountain towns of the Kiso Valley. A preserved and restored portion of the old Nakasendo/Kisoji runs through the mountains between the southernmost post towns of Magome and Tsumago. The 8.5 km (just over 5 mile) journey takes between 2 and 4 hours, and includes some breathtaking views of the Kiso Valley. On the morning I made the

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A Labor (Day) of Love

Today is Labor Day in the United States — a federal holiday (established as such in 1894) commemorating the contributions of working people and the efforts of the labor movement. Most of us celebrate Labor Day with a notable absence of labor–banks and many shops are closed, people have the day off work and school, and it’s the “last hurrah” of summer (although, given the sweltering weather here in Sacramento, I’d say summer isn’t quite ready to throw in the towel).  I love Labor Day, because it’s a sign that my favorite season–autumn–is approaching. Soon, summer’s heat will fade to brisk, cold nights

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